Range Rover air suspension

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Email from Peter Barnes

Hi Rod,   Just some comments on Mark Chandler's method of 'manually' pumping up the EAS system.
Firstly I own a '93 Classic Vogue SE and it went down to the bump stops a few weeks ago. Happened on the M4, at first I thought I had a blow out as the ride became VERY hard. Pulled over onto the hard shoulder to have a look. The Rangie looked a bit sad down on the bump stops. Anyway managed to have a very bumpy ride home (West London) was a bit like driving an old tractor.
Once I'd got all the information I originally pumped mine up by disconnecting the multiplug at the valve block and using lots of wires/croc clips and a spare battery to 'fire' the compressor.

Anyway just recently found Mark's method.....much easier and more sensible...It works fine.

Now a couple of points I noted in Walter Burtons comments. I was working on mine with the door open. This means that the 'air suspension delay relay' is energised, so power is always available at pin 1, regardless of the ignition switch position. With the compressor (only) running (pins 1 & 8 connected) if I shut the door then after 20 seconds the relay de-energises and the compressor stops. Confused me for a couple of minutes as Walter says use the key to turn power on/off.
Also, the EAS ECU, on mine is under the drivers seat (right-hand side) and is the TOP box (UK model)
Finally I didn't pull back the sleeve and split the wires on the multi-plug. It was easier to slip the ends of the 'pigtails' into the appropriate sockets on the multi-plug. Looking at the plug, end-on, pin 1 is top left, pin 18 top right, pin 19 bottom left and pin 35 bottom right. When I made the 4-wired pigtail connector I flattened the ends of the wires and coated them with some solder to form a sort of male 'spade' connecter. These slipped into the multi-plug easier.
I think this is one piece of kit I will carry permanently in the Rangie.......JUST IN CASE.
Now it's off to my local repair guy to use his Rovacom for the diagnostics. Faulty Height Sensors I think. This method can only be used assuming all the pneumatic side of things is working correctly. i.e. Air Bags,compressor & valve block are all ok.
Regards Pete...........

Hi Rod,
It's me again.
If you're going to put any of this on the web I thought I needed to go over the 'air suspension delay relay' again (the big one under the drivers seat) I don't think I emphasised it enough in my original e-mail.
This relay is used to keep the EAS live for 20 seconds after you leave the vehicle. With the door open the relay is energised and the system is permanently live (+12V on pin 1 if you have the multiplug disconnected) This I found out as explained in my first e-mail.
If you have the door closed then after 20 seconds the relay de-energises and thus no power at pin 1(mind you I can't see anyone working this way with the door closed) Walter states in his comments that he used the key to turn on/off the EAS but doing it this way means that after switching the ignition off the relay remains energised for 20 seconds and you would keep pumping up an air bag for this amount of time. This would probably over inflate the air bag with potential damage to the pneumatics.

I would always just push in/pull out the wire on pin 1 to start/stop the process as this stops power instantaneously. Incidentally the Workshop Manual states that the 'standard ride height' is 790mm +/- 7mm, as measured from the wheelarch to the floor (I believe this is how it's measured in the garage when a system is re-calibrated)

Basically be very careful when pumping up the system 'manually', do it in stages, as once there is some pressure in the system then the air bags can rise quite quickly when the appropriate wires are connected.
Once again regards

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